How Long Keep Opened Relaxer

Patriiiiick the interview! (With real pieces of chocolate in it)

For both the merits would follow, I repeat: the chocolate and I c is a long history. You see, I was very well brought up by a mom totally Cookie chocoholic ...

Summary of previous episodes: before, at home, it was Maison du Chocolat, and then ensued a long and beautiful period JP , his bitter macaroons and rocks. also remains in my heart what else chocolate, Pascal Le Gac . Besides the episode Angelina hot chocolate, and homemade chocolates hyper hype, or my recent orgy Chocolaterie de l'Opera.

After JP, therefore, there one day, the arrival of Patrick . Patrick Roger and his rock, praline its orangettes, its ganache lemon, lime, lemongrass, lemon thyme ... Patrick and his tablet Praline ... Patrick and his pad of May ... Patrick and his partner.

Moving from that side of the force is to remain there forever, be warned.

And since I had the pleasure to spend time with him on the newsletter CCDessert , I am sharing a few words of the master.

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Patrick Roger Chocolatier artist, artist chocolatier, indivisible. The fantasy that reigns in this universe can not exist without the extreme rigor necessary to mastering this delicate matter. These two facets, one and one guided by taste and emotion, are gathered in buckets under the roof of the old printing lab that houses the brand new Patrick Roger.

Large volumes can smoothly accommodate the unusual pieces of the artist chocolatier, which accumulate over the years: here small Fanny aligned radiant dancers forms greedy and sensual, this huge polar bear, as taken from life.

In the garden grow some herbs that are used for making ganache, while ten hives are about to deliver their first harvest of honey, Patrick Roger looks forward to integrating the recipe a candy. Taste, true and just, that's the motto of the master of its own.

You Meilleur Ouvrier de France since 2000, which may seem paradoxical for your character, why have wanted to pass this contest?
Because it takes! Seriously, this is a technical requirement that advance. But it's nothing to have the MOF must remain especially worthy of the title in the long term. Stay on top, this is the real challenge.

How did you fall into the cauldron of chocolate?
I entered the world of chocolate by accident. My parents put me in learning pastry, then I joined Mauduit in Paris. At the time, in 1986, learning, baking, was the siding. It where I discovered chocolate. In fact, the chocolate will discover me. It is the matter with which I realized I could build my life, and so on. Chocolate is a passport to the world.

Where do you get your creativity?
The measures of "creation" and chocolate are inseparable. This is the total coincidence that guides me, the taste of discovery. I am inspired by everything around: tastes, meetings, people, products. Everything we see is a source of creativity.

How to define your line of taste?
My tastes are very simple, just a taste of things, products of the garden ... What is important is the accuracy and balance of flavors.

The taste - it is learned?
I do not know ... I think not. It is a matter of perception and sensitivity, I believe that much is innate.

The taste of your madeleine?
The apple turnover. And choux pastry, fresh from the oven ...

The taste of your greatest discovery?
The foie gras, at Bocuse.

A moment or a special occasion for chocolate? Towards
21heures. But especially before meals, when the Palace is available. It's like desserts, pastries: you can never enjoy a dessert that comes after a meal at a time when the stomach is full and where we are saturated with tastes, it takes time to hand.

If it was to remain one?
Everything here is good! Praline but the rock remains a favorite.

The Future?
The future is to continue to create the taste, and to transmit it.
We thought in Japan, but there are plenty of French chocolatiers out there, and the market works great with the media and the hype that usually lasts only 2 or 3 years.

Are you a man happy?
Rather, yes!

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Patrick Roger info and addresses

Argentine Food Edinburgh

noma experience

I am a gourmet, blended with an impatient. I mean, right now, here, now, enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. If the urge strikes, it will be brutal, frank and a bit capricious.
An exception, however: it is good to let go this intense desire before an exceptional meal. These meals expectations so high that their arrival is almost frightening, they are rare and this rarity is certainly not something to do with flavor.

Photo Food Snob

The reservation several months in advance does not bother me, this is it, our name is entered, the time may come in mind, we think from time to time, we forget that ultimately re-emerge to better leave a few weeks before. There, until the day before, the desire simmering quietly in a corner of the mind starts to boil and then simmer. The excitement and hope are at their height, but the question gets involved: was there not too embellished the case? and if it was a day " without? Am I fit enough? will I measure up?

The day is not lifted, we head to the airport, towards Copenhagen. The time has come, I memorized the route by heart, excited as a chip, and we trottinons gaily.
At the end of the peninsula, improbable Noma.


In a country where not reign a priori evidence gourmet, this place is without doubt a curiosity. In fact, the success took its time to get here. Of years during which Rene Redzepi continued its commitment to local cuisine, that is now called the new Nordic cuisine, whose philosophy is summed up in his manifesto .

This commitment is the heart of Noma. That's what allowed him to be born in 2003 when approached by Claus Meyer - the biggest foodie from Denmark - Redzepi has been chosen to live and offer the world the local cuisine, by exploding creativity through ingredients and products, such as a flagship store, we needed a place to express the potential of this cuisine. Thus was born Noma or Nordisk Mad, northern cuisine.

truth is the word that is needed first, as the sober and warm as the reception. These smiles do not lie then.

Start experience, the menu nassaaq in twelve dishes, half a dozen appetizers, about five hours at table vanished in the blink of an eye.

Photo Food Snob - chicken skin crispy rye bread, cheese and smoked lumpfish eggs

smoked quail egg hay

tile bread, mayonnaise fish eggs, herbs, skin Duck, dehydrated vinegar

"So how was it? " Amazing, unique, different.

Benchmarks are thought to have been far, not because our tastes labeled pepper, olive oil and citrus are lost, but because it is entirely immersed in a whole new experience in the restaurant. Which begins with service: each turn, one of the cooks bring a dish, names and explains it. Is it because they themselves have been picking the herbs their joy pervades their words?

is eaten without thinking about what should be a particular product, we get caught up in the aesthetics of the products: no effect whaou tortured or buildings, but built to create a display of emotion.

technique and purity, at times almost brutal, intermingle in the local cuisine. You are left speechless in front of these saint jaques dried and the mixture of grain, caramelized salsify in a skin of milk and cream, black truffle from Gotland, these chestnuts sliced raw bathed in a light butter sauce with fish eggs, or what Dessert: ice artichoke, hard disks and raw pear malt bitterness which sticks to the palace to give better relief to the sweetness of the whole.


hyper This kitchen is anything but a poser figure, it is with a certain idea of respect. Between the eater and the eaten, the link never breaks, and the ingredient brand keeps its origin.

This lobster, we seized it with your fingers by touching the hot stone that served as his medium. We toasted his delicacy in the coating of the emulsion oyster and seaweed powder, midway between creamy sweetness and intensity disturbing.

It feels good, there, in this airy dining room, amid the smiles and cheerful bustle. This is probably so rare that the evidence does not appear: it is truly successful, living con .

containers, lack of coverage on many dishes, choice of materials, the interplay of temperature, while the eater is a real participant. Felt plates, porcelain eggs, stones, pebbles ... we touch, we feel, we eat, we like.
Relaxed, it is more receptive to humor: the famous pot of radish, the land of malt and hazelnut emulsion and herbs, a small fry here trapped in a ball of donut, is a fane carrot for the nose of a snowman in three meringues.

Photo Food Snob

This is not a scoop, what happens here is important, fundamental to the kitchen and restaurant. And we want more.



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noma
Strandgade 93, Copenhagen 1401, Denmark
Book: noma.dk

Toothpick Truss Bridge Blueprint

OFF 5: Viewpoints

This does is not a record, let alone analysis. It is an exchange of glances. On OFF, a little, on the kitchen much. Between it, and its dazzling me. "Because writing about food is like eating, it feels better to many".

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Cookie

it to me the difficult task of beginning, good grip, which will hold the reader until the end. I will dare, by first trying to touch you you. I know how sweet, as sometimes overlooked, is a vast field of experience, treats, sometimes misunderstandings for you. So I really wanted to tell you about the cracker pork Kobe Desramault. Not only because I know you'll have things to say about it, but because I tasted a few months ago. I remember the few minutes before I was torn between curiosity and anxiety pork served as a softness. And yet I think it's a dessert the most significant of my life: raw pork as part supported by the sweetness of the praline nuts, bitter beer Panepot, caramel black chicory, ice creamy to beer, the foam would have loved you, zabaglione, everything was there. Perhaps also because Kobe Desramault brought us the dessert filled with doubts and reservations. He had that same discretion to off those who are not necessarily comfortable in public but whose passion for the art prevails and takes us ...


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Sophie Oh yes I like sweet, this is my favorite playground without being an end in itself, like the sweet to savory in its report, its boundaries blurred in his keys, his flirtations acid, bitter, crunchy, soft, smooth, sharp, in his love affair with a grain of salt. And I love the salty for the same reasons. I wonder when these two worlds will cease to live together, despite the opening speech on the fall of their wall. While I welcome the approach of a public place left to sweet, I must admit that it is still in the realm of chefs that I let myself be carried away by beautiful greedy impulses. This cracker really speaks to me, this composition speaks to me, because as you say, everything is there: the fat, round, of the coating, and bitterness, crunch, texture, life ! one dessert should always be like this: the opposite of redundancy and allocation of constructivist pastry :-) Kobe was perhaps filled with doubts, but it seems miles away as the sorcerer's apprentice we meet sometimes, often. On another note, I loved the "sweet" by Alexandre Gauthier, the ice ball with sorrel balanced on the plate, and the meringue stone ... All his dishes bore the mark of a beautiful insurance (although I think the credo of impertinence should not drag its creativity), and I look forward to the road to the Madeleine.


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Cookie

impertinence Oh, I so loved that word! Alexandre Gauthier has distinguished provocation, to prevent any critic to take it as such. His cuisine is radical, wild, sometimes brutal, but is certainly not ostentatious or demonstrative. With these old branches of broccoli, it overcomes all the proprieties and stoves that may be what makes it sassy. It does not use any ingredient too, removed his seafood tasting menu by sake of "reframing." Surprise, I who had so immersed in his shell, green almonds and strawberries. But Alexander Gauthier seems to know that nothing should be fixed, that "signature dishes" should not even exist, that the kitchen is experienced from the moment and deserves a little! His prickly chestnuts which one ice burnt toast and cocoa nougat are the best example. But what about others who do not think their kitchen in terms of effect, but simply in terms of taste, cooks Foster?



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Arnaud Daguin example? which seems to be cooking gourmet taste and essential in its choice, or rather his desires, his generosity. Funny how the apparent discrepancy between the frame and ultra modern minimalist table d'hôte cuisine and voluptuous is actually a total fitness: a big old oven, beautiful vegetables, close with the producers, it does is not superfluous, everything is in compliance and simplicity. It occurred to me as a symbol of hospitality, commensality. In the spirit of Troisgros and Grand Covered. There is also this and this free gluttony desire to give pleasure to lick your fingers at this frenchie Greg.
What counts, at bottom, these are the little stars in the eyes of those who eat and do eat, right? In fact, what's new at Mr. Passard? We had to leave without listening to Deauville. kiss


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I liked the poetry of Arnaud Daguin: "The small vegetable armor was sacrificed at the altar of taste," I laughed these injunctions Dr Coudran, tenderness he had in speaking of his "designer-wife, his unsheathed a writer from another era, in short, a very nice person who revives my desire to go lose myself in Hegi!
It's funny that you mention Passard, probably because these two men have a real relationship to the product, as when a real sensuality Arnaud Daguin Bones his pigeon, when Alain Passard evokes the colors of the vegetables in the touching of the hand. Passard Ah, what will! This moment of exchange for four voices was a rare beauty. Perhaps because Alain Passard came with his gardener, perhaps because he was able to make very small beside the real protagonists, vegetables, perhaps because it came with a deprivation essential to impregnation of his words and gestures to cook. Few techniques, just a simmering pan that houses almost nonchalantly root vegetables vibrant flavors, just a "I put in the service of my knowledge all vegetable cook animal. A sentence Andrea Petrini almost had to extract as compared to its vegetable seems intimate and hollowing. Obvious who steadfastly obeys the rule of the season "if we think the product 12 months out of 12, we have no creativity needed rest . That means Mr. Passard here? The product manual creation, that it emanates from him? What do you think Cookie, did you get this impression from other cooks?




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mmmmmmmmhhhhhhhhhh ... ... .. hard question, because in fact the general discourse is still saying that it is the product that gives guidelines, product, season, origin: reason. The chefs we love you and I always have this intelligence there, take the nature not as a constraint but as a given, from which they embroidered and lets talk about its meaning and its soul. The creation of the product does not come, but it gives a frame, a frame. I loved seeing transposed the ferment of ideas in the film, with Inaki, Christian Puglisi and Alexandre Gauthier. You who so loves the picture, what did you think?


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I was shocked by the film Inaki. I have not tried to find him a sense to know what was behind every image, every sound, I let myself into his universe, letting myself be soothed by the colors of amber, gold, forest ... This is his entire kitchen that appears in this film, a kitchen instinct, as currently these plans jerky, these raw filmed for more macro close, again for privacy. Moreover Inaki alluded to the importance of the eye as much as that of taste "as the eye look that taste" and continue to win even if a mistake or do not reach the expected result as with her milk brewed fermented herring, this strainer Warm smoky, probably too thin in the eyes of the cook, but who cares! There radicchio impregnated with oil for daring to grow citrus bitterness, blood orange, grapefruit, powdered bottarga ... eater wants more!
I noticed during the demonstrations "screen, as a witness": the screen freezes an image that will not happen again, because the kitchen lives, because it is movement, because it is time. This is also what gives it its fragile and at the same time, all his strength. And at the same time, I remember this sentence Andrea Petrini "heads would they all become Proust? "As if without a past, without roots, without their infancy, these taste-makers had more material to create ...

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Probably not kitchen-we ever fully to this, no doubt there Has it always involves the ingredients from memory. It is absurd to even see. Not inevitably a nostalgic memory, but memory control, the sensitive track. And without doubt, the spirit of the cook never lets himself be carried by both the gesture and the intuitive moment when loaded from the past and elsewhere.
But you're right, the kitchen needs witnesses, in words and pictures, although the taste, himself, will never allow themselves to reduce them. We can not fix the emotion of taste test and that's good. Because the kitchen is to say "I'm alive," is love, and love in a test tube, I do not know.
These taste-makers who distort and transform their lives and their travels through time and space in a few moments of grace, and rare are those we graze the sublime. And we thank them enough.

I leave you, I have a cake to be monitored.

Malegenital Area Tattoos

Participant observation aquatic London

To get me out of torpor and indolence winter, I thought it was time to resume the only physical activity that I support and appreciate even: the pool . After having been driven once, I remembered this great feeling of mild fatigue, relaxation, mixed with a little pride following the sessions. So resolved, I am at my own pace and gives me motivation to small challenges.

Nothing special pools English, except that you can keep decent human figure because the cap is not imposed.

The cultural fact is interesting to note that we find the same recurrent figures in swimming pools in Paris. Marion had spoken there ; quite of his opinion, I would just like to complete the portrait of two other specimens characteristics of the urban water environment. Do not see there any value judgments or criticism: that participant observation of the ethnological tradition.

First, the asiat' qui mate. The Asian-
-mate who is a character that we (I) found in the vast majority of urban swimming pools, so it is Asian-styled, very athletic, fine and dry. It moves faster than the wind, and you never know if it is still there or already gone deep into the showers. It
fuse under water, on water, above water, according to various households borrowed it controls through its ten slender fingers. Slenderness allows it, it seems to cross the 30 meters of the basin without bringing out any droplets on his fellow citizens online.
However, if you can observe, he is so discreet, you will observe that the asiat'-who-mate, even if it seems busy all of his backflip ultimately really seems to point his glasses to you under the water. .. This disturbing trend, though somewhat irritating at first, becomes tolerable. Because, unlike cod or bikini gesticulator, the Asian-who-mate does not pollute your living space. Moreover, it is usually sufficient when you manage to cross the culprit, look to support a farm (with elevation of the eyebrows right) for the Asian-who-mate focuses on another body submerged. The case of

BGR , step-kid sucks This specimen
chlorinated water has the characteristic of being well crafted, category-young-dynamic framework, perhaps a little too dynamic, even. Used the pool, he visited at least 3 times a week for an hour roundtrip inninterrompus exercise. The BBG is an aerodynamic look professional, and his movements are precise and assured. If the crawl
mastery to perfection, the BGR seems confident that the performance comes from the size of the splash zone caused by the beating of the left foot. This is the only and very big disadvantage of BGR: her left foot sends a jet of a good five feet high, jet spreading so by well-known formula:
Σ (x Left Foot Pressure temp water) - Speed BGR Ω * π = 2.7 m , the diameter of the affected area . Obviously, the BBG is swimming in the center line, which would guarantee to make every person. Two techniques

tempted to fight against the inconvenience of BGR:
1) Technical British: enjoy a moment of respite to hail the individual, take a smile Freedent putting forms. In practice: "excuse me, Mr. BGR, do you think it would be possible to eventually try to stop splash around everybody?"
Regrettably, my BBG did not seem to want to adopt the British politeness, and he answered me and then repeated 3 times: "Is it a joke??" Poor technique, therefore, because it departed more beautiful (to me specifically, it seems).
2) Avoidance Technique : Identify times of the BBG, and dislocating his. Effective.

Well, that said, what's new in the sweet life in London?

To reward those miles traveled, I can only advise you to taste the best tart London: panna cotta, candied grapefruit, dates. Where? The tearoom Sketch of , of course. (9 Conduit Street , London W1S 2XG)



Not to mention the arrival of Mr Hermé, with a stand macaroons and chocolates from Selfridges (400 Oxford Street, London ) before opening a shop to Belgravia within three months.

Thanks again for the invitation, Mr PH, I still have a headache.

appointments within days for the report of OFF 5 in Deauville, where the choice between the demos may be agonizing. Remember, last year ...