Thursday, April 29, 2010

How Long Keep Opened Relaxer

Patriiiiick the interview! (With real pieces of chocolate in it)


For both the merits would follow, I repeat: the chocolate and I c is a long history. You see, I was very well brought up by a mom totally Cookie chocoholic ...

Summary of previous episodes: before, at home, it was Maison du Chocolat, and then ensued a long and beautiful period JP , his bitter macaroons and rocks. also remains in my heart what else chocolate, Pascal Le Gac . Besides the episode Angelina hot chocolate, and homemade chocolates hyper hype, or my recent orgy Chocolaterie de l'Opera.

After JP, therefore, there one day, the arrival of Patrick . Patrick Roger and his rock, praline its orangettes, its ganache lemon, lime, lemongrass, lemon thyme ... Patrick and his tablet Praline ... Patrick and his pad of May ... Patrick and his partner.

Moving from that side of the force is to remain there forever, be warned.

And since I had the pleasure to spend time with him on the newsletter CCDessert , I am sharing a few words of the master.

***

Patrick Roger Chocolatier artist, artist chocolatier, indivisible. The fantasy that reigns in this universe can not exist without the extreme rigor necessary to mastering this delicate matter. These two facets, one and one guided by taste and emotion, are gathered in buckets under the roof of the old printing lab that houses the brand new Patrick Roger.


Large volumes can smoothly accommodate the unusual pieces of the artist chocolatier, which accumulate over the years: here small Fanny aligned radiant dancers forms greedy and sensual, this huge polar bear, as taken from life.


In the garden grow some herbs that are used for making ganache, while ten hives are about to deliver their first harvest of honey, Patrick Roger looks forward to integrating the recipe a candy. Taste, true and just, that's the motto of the master of its own.


You Meilleur Ouvrier de France since 2000, which may seem paradoxical for your character, why have wanted to pass this contest?
Because it takes! Seriously, this is a technical requirement that advance. But it's nothing to have the MOF must remain especially worthy of the title in the long term. Stay on top, this is the real challenge.

How did you fall into the cauldron of chocolate?
I entered the world of chocolate by accident. My parents put me in learning pastry, then I joined Mauduit in Paris. At the time, in 1986, learning, baking, was the siding. It where I discovered chocolate. In fact, the chocolate will discover me. It is the matter with which I realized I could build my life, and so on. Chocolate is a passport to the world.

Where do you get your creativity?
The measures of "creation" and chocolate are inseparable. This is the total coincidence that guides me, the taste of discovery. I am inspired by everything around: tastes, meetings, people, products. Everything we see is a source of creativity.

How to define your line of taste?
My tastes are very simple, just a taste of things, products of the garden ... What is important is the accuracy and balance of flavors.

The taste - it is learned?
I do not know ... I think not. It is a matter of perception and sensitivity, I believe that much is innate.

The taste of your madeleine?
The apple turnover. And choux pastry, fresh from the oven ...

The taste of your greatest discovery?
The foie gras, at Bocuse.

A moment or a special occasion for chocolate? Towards
21heures. But especially before meals, when the Palace is available. It's like desserts, pastries: you can never enjoy a dessert that comes after a meal at a time when the stomach is full and where we are saturated with tastes, it takes time to hand.

If it was to remain one?
Everything here is good! Praline but the rock remains a favorite.

The Future?
The future is to continue to create the taste, and to transmit it.
We thought in Japan, but there are plenty of French chocolatiers out there, and the market works great with the media and the hype that usually lasts only 2 or 3 years.

Are you a man happy?
Rather, yes!

***

Patrick Roger info and addresses

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Argentine Food Edinburgh

noma experience


I am a gourmet, blended with an impatient. I mean, right now, here, now, enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. If the urge strikes, it will be brutal, frank and a bit capricious.

An exception, however: it is good to let go this intense desire before an exceptional meal. These meals expectations so high that their arrival is almost frightening, they are rare and this rarity is certainly not something to do with flavor.


The reservation several months in advance does not bother me, this is it, our name is entered, the time may come in mind, we think from time to time, we forget that ultimately re-emerge to better leave a few weeks before. There, until the day before, the desire simmering quietly in a corner of the mind starts to boil and then simmer. The excitement and hope are at their height, but the question gets involved: was there not too embellished the case? and if it was a day " without? Am I fit enough? will I measure up?


The day is not lifted, we head to the airport, towards Copenhagen. The time has come, I memorized the route by heart, excited as a chip, and we trottinons gaily.
At the end of the peninsula, improbable Noma.


In a country where not reign a priori evidence gourmet, this place is without doubt a curiosity. In fact, the success took its time to get here. Of years during which Rene Redzepi continued its commitment to local cuisine, that is now called the new Nordic cuisine, whose philosophy is summed up in his manifesto .

This commitment is the heart of Noma. That's what allowed him to be born in 2003 when approached by Claus Meyer - the biggest foodie from Denmark - Redzepi has been chosen to live and offer the world the local cuisine, by exploding creativity through ingredients and products, such as a flagship store, we needed a place to express the potential of this cuisine. Thus was born Noma or Nordisk Mad, northern cuisine.

truth is the word that is needed first, as the sober and warm as the reception. These smiles do not lie then.

Start experience, the menu nassaaq in twelve dishes, half a dozen appetizers, about five hours at table vanished in the blink of an eye.

Photo Food Snob - chicken skin crispy rye bread, cheese and smoked lumpfish eggs

smoked quail egg hay

tile bread, mayonnaise fish eggs, herbs, skin Duck, dehydrated vinegar

"So how was it? " Amazing, unique, different.

Benchmarks are thought to have been far, not because our tastes labeled pepper, olive oil and citrus are lost, but because it is entirely immersed in a whole new experience in the restaurant. Which begins with service: each turn, one of the cooks bring a dish, names and explains it. Is it because they themselves have been picking the herbs their joy pervades their words?

is eaten without thinking about what should be a particular product, we get caught up in the aesthetics of the products: no effect whaou tortured or buildings, but built to create a display of emotion.

technique and purity, at times almost brutal, intermingle in the local cuisine. You are left speechless in front of these saint jaques dried and the mixture of grain, caramelized salsify in a skin of milk and cream, black truffle from Gotland, these chestnuts sliced raw bathed in a light butter sauce with fish eggs, or what Dessert: ice artichoke, hard disks and raw pear malt bitterness which sticks to the palace to give better relief to the sweetness of the whole.


hyper This kitchen is anything but a poser figure, it is with a certain idea of respect. Between the eater and the eaten, the link never breaks, and the ingredient brand keeps its origin.

This lobster, we seized it with your fingers by touching the hot stone that served as his medium. We toasted his delicacy in the coating of the emulsion oyster and seaweed powder, midway between creamy sweetness and intensity disturbing.

It feels good, there, in this airy dining room, amid the smiles and cheerful bustle. This is probably so rare that the evidence does not appear: it is truly successful, living con .

containers, lack of coverage on many dishes, choice of materials, the interplay of temperature, while the eater is a real participant. Felt plates, porcelain eggs, stones, pebbles ... we touch, we feel, we eat, we like.
Relaxed, it is more receptive to humor: the famous pot of radish, the land of malt and hazelnut emulsion and herbs, a small fry here trapped in a ball of donut, is a fane carrot for the nose of a snowman in three meringues.





This is not a scoop, what happens here is important, fundamental to the kitchen and restaurant. And we want more.



***
noma
Strandgade 93, Copenhagen 1401, Denmark
Book: noma.dk