For me, the reward for good work is often something to be savored. A nice table, a bottle, a big box of chocolate, or all three at once. This table there, it was a moment that I wanted to try it. Since its opening, in fact. The Portuguese chef
Nuno Mendes has not knocked bad. Adrià by it, then by Vongerichten, he opened his gastro-pub Bacchus in 2006, the firm in 2008, then started the dinners in his underground Loft east London, where, three times a week, a dozen eaters are welcome at the table d'hote. The Loft Project is conceived as a platform for culinary experimentation for young leaders "in residence", a place of testing that has (also) helped give birth Viajante.
Opened in April, Viajante is located in the former mayor of Bethnal Green and is part of a small and beautiful resort, Town Hall Hotel & Apartments, all vintage Scandinavian design and clothed. The restaurant is of the same ilk: clear ventilated.
Open kitchens are definitely a reflection of new thinking of the restaurant experience as the service will confirm this. For as in Noma, what are the cooks who bring dishes, announce, give back to the need some clarification on the how the why, and leave their wings open, offering to look their actions, often elegant, sometimes still unsteady .
Redzepi and Noma are strong influences and techniques, textures and tastes of the franchise often remind those in Copenhagen. The comparison ends there: where Noma focuses on the local and the local Nordic Viajante dives into the journey, the confrontation of flavors and inspirations.
This three-course lunch, I remember and cooked to perfection with precise flavors, but also greed that emerges. As with the scoop of brown butter whipped, ultra smooth and fragrant, sprinkled with a little chicken skin crispy and powder vitelotte. It falls into the trap before the first exquisite dish, and we want more, trying not to think about the calorie explosion of the thing.
Gourmande again, this skin of milk fat coats as evidence lobster, amazingly tender, and those who still resist leeks in the tooth. With crunchy hazelnuts and crispy chicken skin, there is. And they stay until dessert, around the green apple, toasted oatmeal with maple syrup and Thai basil. Sweet, fresh, creamy, crisp, excellent.
Finally, after the lunch menu 3-course £ 25, you just want to schedule the next visit for dinner.
* Viajante
* Viajante
Patriot Square
Bethnal Green - London E2 9NF
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